People with radiant heat usually love it, and with good reason. It's quiet and even. What they're missing is air conditioning, and sometimes they just can't stand the look of the baseboard radiators. Both are perfectly valid reasons to call us.
What Usually Decides It?
Mostly cost and personal preference. The big costs in removing a boiler aren't the new equipment. They're the labor of decommissioning the old system and putting the house back together afterwards.
Some rebate programs do require removing the gas-burning system completely to get the maximum rebate, so that can tip the math. We'll tell you which programs apply to your house.
The Case for Keeping the Boiler and Adding Mini Splits
This is what I did in my own home. We kept the boiler and added three cold-climate mini split heads.
- No decommissioning. No labor to take the old system out.
- No patching. Pulling out radiators and pipes leaves holes in the floor and marks on the walls behind them, which all need patching and refinishing.
- Air conditioning in summer. Mini splits are heat pumps, so they cool as well as heat.
- A second heat source in winter. A boiler on its own gives you one way to heat your house. Adding a heat pump gives you two.
- Room-by-room control. Each mini split head is controlled on its own. At my house, a room we rarely use stays cool, but when I'm working in the office or we have a guest, we can warm that room up without heating the whole 1,500-square-foot mother-in-law suite.
When Does Removing the Boiler and Adding Ducts Make Sense?
- During a gut renovation. If the drywall is already coming out, adding ducts is a much smaller share of the project.
- When the boiler is near the end of its life and needs an expensive replacement anyway.
- When you want one central system and don't mind the cost of getting there.
Without a renovation, adding ducts to a finished home gets expensive fast. Re-ducting a three-story house can run $50,000 or more with a new system, and an older multi-story home that was never built for ducts could reach $100,000. For most families, that's exactly where a ductless system makes more sense. Our ductwork guide explains why ductwork costs what it does.
Is the Attic a Good Place for New Equipment?
When people replace a boiler with central air, the attic often looks like the easy spot. Sometimes it's the only option, and then it's the route to take. But it comes with real downsides:
- Water damage. If a drain line clogs or a pan overflows in an attic, the water comes through your ceiling. The same problem in a utility room is a mop job.
- Efficiency. Unless the attic is sealed and conditioned (rare in Colorado, and rarer in older homes), your equipment and ducts sit in a space that's very hot in summer and very cold in winter. The convenience at install can be outweighed by higher running costs for years afterwards.
- Service costs more. Attic work is harder and slower, and there's always a risk of a foot through the ceiling. We charge a surcharge for it.
If the attic is your main option, I'd at least look at ceiling cassette mini splits. They mount nearly flush with the ceiling, look tidy, and avoid most of the attic downsides.
Boiler FAQ
Can I Add Air Conditioning to a House With a Boiler?
Yes. Mini split heat pumps are usually the simplest way, and they add a second heat source too.
Do Mini Splits Work in Colorado Winters?
Cold-climate models do. They keep producing heat well below 0 °F.
Do I Have to Remove My Boiler to Get Rebates?
Not always. Some rebate programs require removing gas service, or pay more if you do. Rules change often, so we'll check which programs apply to your home before you decide.